For Friday I thought I would share with you a few things regarding Pinot Noir, that I had been philosophizing myself in light of recent tastings notes, as well as the article from the Times.
First issue at hand was the blending of Syrah in Pinot Noir. Such practices, by law, are legal in many places. In California, you can blend up to 25% of other juice into your Pinot. Whereas in Oregon, less than 10% (I believe they are pushing for 95% Pinot). In Burgundy, of course, its 100% Pinot. So you end up with the progressives (such as Williams Seylem, mentioned in QM's tasting note) arguing that blending adds another layer of flavor, while the purists maintain that you don't mess with the noble Red Burgundian grape.
Second, in similar vein, is the alcohol issue. Because we can now grow Pinot Noir in much hotter places, alcohol would increase naturally. In the NY Times Article this past Wednesday, where the point of discussion was "why fuss so much about alcohol when the wine is balanced," you had progressives (like Adam Lee, the winemaker from Siduri, who dupped the Master Sommelier) argued that balance trumps alcohol, whereas the purist counter that the real thing (Red Burgundy) was never about alcohol.
As much as I love Burgundy (who doesn't), I think these types of arguments are moot. Much like the emergence of the Californian Cab 30-40 years ago, back then most winemakers simply blend their reds to make a Bordeaux-like wine, because that was the long held standard of excellence. When a few brave souls (like the Duckhorns) chose not to blend, they were thought of as crazy. But of course fast forward to present time, the Californian, or more specifically, Napa-style of Cabernet is now world renowned and had installed a new taste profile for the Cabernet grape.
And coming back to Pinot Noir, I believe what we are observing now is the breaking down of one of the last bastions of tradition in wine, as Burgundian traditions are now being challenged. Several reasons. First, many new winemakers were weaned on new world wines, so they make what they like to drink. Second, many of them are now trained here in the U.S., and did not get the exposure that many of the older pioneers had experienced, when they travelled to Europe to learn winemaking. In this way, them young guns won’t feel as bounded by tradition as it is a much more distant concept for them. Last, even the consumer had changed – simply said, fruitier new world wines are much more appealing to the average consumer these days than your average bottle of Chianti or Cotes de Rhone, which is what their parents would drink.
As much as we fear the diluting of this once-revered tradition, Pinot Noir is simply taking a similar evolutionary course like the Cab, with new styles being established and welcomed by the public. Recently I had the pleasure of discussing this with the Assistant Winemaker from Kistler, and he agreed that the spectrum of Pinot styles had definitely broadened, and is a great thing to the trade and to the public.
Ultimately, it comes back to whether you like the wine or not. Personally, I stay away from the super ripe, heavier, higher alcohol Pinot Noir because it is the elegance and subtlety of the grape that I liked. If I liked it dressed up I’d order a cab. But let's say if I have a table all wanting Pinot for their steak dinner, I would be glad to have the option of ordering the heavier one, which would go much better with the food.
I’m thirsty now. DRC, please?
First issue at hand was the blending of Syrah in Pinot Noir. Such practices, by law, are legal in many places. In California, you can blend up to 25% of other juice into your Pinot. Whereas in Oregon, less than 10% (I believe they are pushing for 95% Pinot). In Burgundy, of course, its 100% Pinot. So you end up with the progressives (such as Williams Seylem, mentioned in QM's tasting note) arguing that blending adds another layer of flavor, while the purists maintain that you don't mess with the noble Red Burgundian grape.
Second, in similar vein, is the alcohol issue. Because we can now grow Pinot Noir in much hotter places, alcohol would increase naturally. In the NY Times Article this past Wednesday, where the point of discussion was "why fuss so much about alcohol when the wine is balanced," you had progressives (like Adam Lee, the winemaker from Siduri, who dupped the Master Sommelier) argued that balance trumps alcohol, whereas the purist counter that the real thing (Red Burgundy) was never about alcohol.
As much as I love Burgundy (who doesn't), I think these types of arguments are moot. Much like the emergence of the Californian Cab 30-40 years ago, back then most winemakers simply blend their reds to make a Bordeaux-like wine, because that was the long held standard of excellence. When a few brave souls (like the Duckhorns) chose not to blend, they were thought of as crazy. But of course fast forward to present time, the Californian, or more specifically, Napa-style of Cabernet is now world renowned and had installed a new taste profile for the Cabernet grape.
And coming back to Pinot Noir, I believe what we are observing now is the breaking down of one of the last bastions of tradition in wine, as Burgundian traditions are now being challenged. Several reasons. First, many new winemakers were weaned on new world wines, so they make what they like to drink. Second, many of them are now trained here in the U.S., and did not get the exposure that many of the older pioneers had experienced, when they travelled to Europe to learn winemaking. In this way, them young guns won’t feel as bounded by tradition as it is a much more distant concept for them. Last, even the consumer had changed – simply said, fruitier new world wines are much more appealing to the average consumer these days than your average bottle of Chianti or Cotes de Rhone, which is what their parents would drink.
As much as we fear the diluting of this once-revered tradition, Pinot Noir is simply taking a similar evolutionary course like the Cab, with new styles being established and welcomed by the public. Recently I had the pleasure of discussing this with the Assistant Winemaker from Kistler, and he agreed that the spectrum of Pinot styles had definitely broadened, and is a great thing to the trade and to the public.
Ultimately, it comes back to whether you like the wine or not. Personally, I stay away from the super ripe, heavier, higher alcohol Pinot Noir because it is the elegance and subtlety of the grape that I liked. If I liked it dressed up I’d order a cab. But let's say if I have a table all wanting Pinot for their steak dinner, I would be glad to have the option of ordering the heavier one, which would go much better with the food.
I’m thirsty now. DRC, please?
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